I was very new to Mumbai when, out of boredom, I decided to explore one of the markets of Mumbai. That’s when I came across this place. Quite far from where I stay. If you are not from Mumbai, let me tell you, there is SOBO (South Bombay) or Town (as most call it), and there is the Suburbs. And this is one of the busiest markets in Mumbai where people residing at far-off locations (read beyond the suburbs) throng – only to shop. Mumbaikars would already have guessed the place – Yes! It is Crawford Market (officially Mahatma Jyotiba Phule Mandai)!

And mind you, it’s not the first copy!! And you get a platter full of ‘options’.

P.S. – Price may vary among different establishments

Crawford Market, located in the heart of Mumbai, is one of the oldest and most iconic markets in the city. Originally built in 1869, it was named after Arthur Crawford, who served as the first Municipal Commissioner of Mumbai.

A busy marketplace where you will find everything – from fresh produce and spices to textiles and souvenirs. It is a popular destination for locals and tourists alike, acting as a sensory overload with its sights, sounds, and smells.

The market also has a dedicated section for spices, dry fruits, and bakery items, which is a paradise for food enthusiasts. From basic ones like cumin and turmeric to more exotic ones like saffron and cardamom – whatever you wish for will be available here.

Also known among many as the pet market (a section where cats, dogs, birds, and all other animals are sold and the section where I hardly set foot), there is this other section that people tend to miss, which is the toiletries and cosmetic section (which people may obviously know but maybe not be aware of the gems it holds)! And that is where I found the “treasure of sweet fragrance”.

Most of the shops here sell first copies of the perfume, BUT some shops sell originals. Who would want to buy the ”copy” of an item that pretty much defines one’s personality?

They are all Testers and come without a Box (I would have divulged more, but I do not want to reveal their secret). The moment you ask for the box, the price shoots back to the original price (which will be more than double the usual cost).

1. Fragrances don’t lie. Never will a 1st copy be long-lasting. The very first perfume that I purchased from there lasted more than 14 hours (as long as someone’s office timing).

2. I have my perfume expert (my childhood friend) who looks for nuances that are invisible to otherwise ignorant people like me. He gets originals from his friends abroad, and he checks packaging and other teeny-tiny bits that the normal eye misses.

3. The bottle will have “Tester” written – either in big letters, or at the bottom of the bottle or on the side. It will be mentioned somewhere, so scrutinize. If it isn’t mentioned, then you will know – it’s a fake.

4. There will always be a genuine shopkeeper who will tell you that the product is a Tester. And there will also be some who will say “rakh lo madam, ekdum original hai” – if you hear this, then run!! (I was duped, so I know).

Crawford Market is a maze that you can conquer if you visit frequently. Every shop will have genuine staff and copies. But the onus is on you to find the genuine ones. Once you do, keep visiting the shop – that makes you their loyal customer, and they would never sell you a “copy”! In fact, once my regular shop did pass on a “copy” to me. I returned, tested it properly, and then called and told him it was a copy. He was quick to apologize and exchanged the perfume when I visited 2 weeks later – because I was a regular customer!

Once you alight from the cab/taxi, cross the road and check for ‘Arif Stores’. You have to enter through the gate that has that store at its entrance. Then take the second lane to your left after you enter and head to the third shop (easy to identify since it sells cosmetics). Now thank me for sharing my long-standing ‘secret’!!

The best way to travel is by train. Whether you stay in Borivali, Kandivali, Vasai, Bandra, Dadar (not just residents, even tourists), hop on the train and reach Churchgate, and from there take a cab, which will cost you around INR 40 (all travel by meter so you don’t have to haggle).

Since I travel from Borivali, I take the Superfast train with limited stops.

Borivali -> Andheri -> Bandra -> Dadar -> Mumbai Central -> Grant Road-> Charni Road -> Marine Lines -> Churchgate

Or you can also board the “Slow” train, which stops at all stations or the “Andheri-Fast” train, which travels like the Superfast train post Andheri. Till Andheri, it stops at all stations.

P.S. – You can also alight at Marine Lines and walk (which I have done on a whim). It is quite a walk, and you don’t even get cabs to head to Crawford from there. So…. Choose wisely!

Although you find all Mumbaikars referring to Crawford as an area that has somehow lost the true meaning in translation. Crawford Market is a historic Victorian-Gothic structure that was built in 1869 and now acts as a huge municipal market. But other markets are surrounding it. They are:

Mangaldas Market – known for fabric, insane ones.

Zaveri Bazaar – known for jewellery – both real and costume ones along with embroidery items

Light Market – dedicated to only different types of light fittings

Manish market

Mohammed Ali Road – ahead of Crawford, turn left, and you have a whole road selling fragrances – attar, perfumes, room fresheners