Struck by Samarkand’s grandeur, Alexander the Great had famously remarked, “Everything I have heard about Marakanda is true, except that it is even more beautiful than I could have imagined.” (Samarkand was known as Marakanda to the Greeks)

One of the Silk Route cities that had captured pages of my history book; without Samarkand, the Uzbekistan itinerary would have been incomplete. And I had only 72 hours to spend in Samarkand.

When it comes to the Silk Route, no name is as evocative as Samarkand, Central Asia’s oldest settlement that was founded in the 8th century B.C. Once the capital of Timur (Tamerlane), the brutish Turkish conqueror who commissioned arresting mosques, madrassas, minarets, and mausoleums, Samarkand went into decline when the capital moved to Bukhara during the reign of the Uzbek Shaybanids. Despite modernity making its mark with broad avenues and parks, history had not conceded. It lingered in every archway, every courtyard, every corner where the light fell differently, reminding me of the brilliance of a bygone era. Never once did it feel like a sensory overload – be it the glazed tiles, a fresco, or the iconoclastic Islamic architecture. It felt more like living a page from history, hard to ignore with stories floating everywhere. This article will document what 48 hours in Samarkand look like, including visiting the main attractions of Registan Square, Gur-e-Amir, Bibi-Khanym Mosque, and Shah-i-Zinda, and indulging in wine tasting at the House Museum of D.L. Filatov during Ramadan!

I wanted to see it all.

Day 1 was all about Registan Square, Bibi Khanum Mosque, Shah-i-Zinda ensemble, with a lot of walking through broad avenues and parks. Day 2 was all spent admiring the Registan Square along with all its madrassas, then Bibi-Khanym Mosque, checking out a Catholic church to welcome Lent (my hubby’s), heading to Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum, and ending the day by attending a ‘non‘ (their traditional bread) baking session! The first thing we did on Day 3 was visit the Khovrenko Wine Factory – the oldest winery in Uzbekistan that was founded by the Russian chemist Mikhail Khovrenko, before taking the broad pavements to Confucius Square, in the old Russian quarters, where I left my partner to relax under the gazebo while I went for a stroll. Soon a distinct bell tower peeked through the brown branches of the bare trees. A teal-coloured cone with a small golden dome crowned with an Orthodox cross; this was the Cathedral of St. Alexis of Moscow, an Orthodox church constructed in 1912 to serve the Russian garrison stationed in Samarkand. Found myself sitting on one of the pews, listening to an old lady humming a hymn for a cat! After I had my fill of melody, I stepped towards Gur-e-Amir, or the Amir Temur Mausoleum, and scouted an adjacent alley for postcards. We stayed approximately 2 kms from the city centre, but the walk there made it extra special. Catching a glimpse of the large courtyards with traditional tandir in a corner for fresh bakes, the call for prayer, and wide pavements for a leisurely stroll, Samarkand had my heart, and the article will mirror how 72 hours in Samarkand doesn’t necessarily mean rushing to see it all. Wrapping it up with essential information on travelling to Samarkand, exploring the avenues, and what to eat where.

We arrived at Ulugbek Bus Station located on the northern side of Samarkand around 2 pm. The bus wasn’t on the cards, but we had no other choice (that’s a story for another time). A little later, our cab arrived, and we were on our way to Hotel Dali Samarkand that we had booked for our stay. Located a little over 2.5 kilometres from our accommodation, it was a deliberate choice to be able to walk around locally through the lanes to feel the local life instead of hailing a cab or staying close to the major attractions. We were camping in the core of the Old City, and that’s what mattered.

Adequately layered with warmers after freshening up, the location pinned on the digital map, we stepped towards Registan Square. By the time we reached Registan Square, the sun had already set. Truth be told, we were famished and stopped for a bite of somsa and a sip of tea at Niyat, an aesthetic eatery with an undertone of Arabic designs – the blues that have become a signature of the Islamic influence. Those tandoor-baked, hot, crispy somsas – you cannot stop at one (still feel my mouth watering thinking about it!).

After a gut full of somsa, there we were, in front of the brightly lit Registan Square. People were lazing on the steps, and even on benches in the park adjacent to the steps. What caught my eye was the open space around such a decorated tourist spot. Unlike the popular spots in India where touts, vendors, and handicraft shops crowd an already narrow lane that leads to heritage places (read: Taj Mahal).

After taking in the exquisite sight of the colourful Registan Square bathing in green and gold, we simply strolled to the end of the street and back. Stopping on the way for snacks and gelatos at 7 Degrees!

Before we headed back, we stopped at ASADBEK LAZZAT (not a good option, which we regretted later). Although we didn’t order any substantial items and stuck to normal tea, much later I read the reviews, and it was appalling. So avoid this place. Among all the places lined up across the street from Registan Square, the only decent place was manned by a single gentleman who whips a mean egg roll.

On the way back, we picked up quite a few items from the grocery store before heading to our hotel.

Couldn’t keep calm for Day 2 to start. It was going to be my day.

The Day didn’t start with such a great spread, as compared to what we were served back at Kamilovs’ Hotel in Tashkent, but an okayish one. Registan Square and somsa were on my mind; I couldn’t really think of anything else.

This time, we booked a cab on Yandex (you need to download this; Yango is also a great option, but I prefer Yandex).

The crowd had started streaming in by the time we reached. Thankfully for me, I was clutching my Lonely Planet for all possible info I required. Why is that? Because there are no local government-aided guides or even audio guides at your disposal, which was a bummer.

P.S. – For those who prefer a guided tour, I would advise Guruwalks in Samarkand, which is a tip-based walking tour, and you pay what you wish. Although booking is free, you need to make the payment at the end of the tour and shouldn’t defraud by refusing to pay (if you have reservations, check the regulations & policy before booking)! The best part is an English-speaking local will be heading the tour.

You can also lean towards the popular walking tours that include meals and also entry fees of some attractions.

I invested a good two and a half hours, reading the guide and looking for the motifs and the stories behind it.

After I was done uploading the beauty (in my mind’s eye) of the ensemble of the majestic tilting madrasas of Registan Square – Ulugbek on the western side, Sher Dor, sitting right across from Ulugbek, and the central crown of Tilla-Kari (Gold-Covered) Madrassa, and are among the world’s most preserved edifices.

P.S. – For those who want some stunning clicks against the backdrop of Registan Square in traditional Uzbek costumes, you can hire a private photographer.

Northeast of this magnificent ensemble lies the Bibi-Khanym Mosque, which was the next stop. Our stomachs were rumbling, but the gelato stand right outside the plaza was beckoning us. Until our next eatery stop, this was our snack. We turned a corner and entered one of the broader avenues; we passed the Silk Route but dropped a pin at Bibikhanum Teahouse. The rumbling had grown louder.

Fun fact: Once it was counted among the world’s largest mosques – its dome climbing 41 metres into the sky and its grand pishtak (entrance portal) rising 38 metres.

Since it was Ash Wednesday, which marks the first day of Lent when worshippers receive a cross on their foreheads, it was time to search for a catholic church that held the service, and found the gorgeous St. John the Baptist Church. Along with it, a cute four-pawed friend who was busy barking, and the moment I approached would hide inside his kennel. It was hilarious, bringing me to the realization that he was lonely and needed company. I played along.

After gathering information on mass timing, we took a cab to Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum, where the Turco-Mongol conqueror Timur (also known as Tamerlane) is laid to rest. Busy absorbing the elaborate azure mosaic designs, my spouse found a cozy corner bench for a short nap. Once I stepped out, my eyes fell on the ‘Post Office’ sign. I knew this was where I would pick up postcards and some souvenirs. Having lost track of time, immersed in the brilliance of the craftsmanship of charming bits of nothing, when the notification alarm on my phone rang to remind me, I had a non (Uzbek local bread) baking class to attend!

I couldn’t keep calm. Not even the most ordinary breakfast could dampen my spirits. I was hitting the oldest wine museum in Uzbekistan — the Khovrenko Museum of Enology (museum of winemaking)! Nothing else mattered.

A late 19th-century historical building that was once the living quarters of the Russian merchant Filatov, who founded the first winery in Uzbekistan, the vestibule led to the entrance hall filled with discerning memorabilia that highlighted tools and processes used in the art of winemaking in Uzbekistan. Adjacent to the hall was the tasting room where I got to try Uzbek wines, cognac, and liqueur. Nothing was spared! Which (I am not ashamed to admit) left me a little tipsy too.

A mediocre breakfast with only two slices of bread and a tiny pint of juice isn’t enough (learned it the hard way) to fight the effect of alcohol. I needed fresh air and a long walk to battle the tipsiness.

On our way to the National Bank of Uzbekistan (we needed to exchange some dollars, and this is the best place to convert), we stopped at a roadside stall to indulge in some local delicacies – somsa, kok somsa, and bichak.  

NBU building looked more historic than the contemporary utility commercial structure it is supposed to represent (loved every bit of architecture in every corner).  

Coming from a city that hardly presents the privilege of walking on pavements that are also mostly cracked, needing immediate repair and often used by two-wheelers, strolling on the wide Samarkand avenues was an absolute delight.

I didn’t realize the distance I covered when I turned to glance at The Confuscious Square plaque. En route, I noticed a stunning Soviet-era church that I wanted to return to. I did. Leaving my spouse to take his well-deserved nap under the gazebo that I caught from the corner of my eye.

I turned and walked back to the church – Cathedral of St. Alexis of Moscow. The gate was open; I stepped inside to the beautiful hum that echoed through the humongous prayer hall. The hum had filled every corner of the room. Completely immersed I lost track of time. What seemed like hours was barely 20 minutes. It was time to call my beloved to experience surreality as I did. On his arrival, we sat together, fingers interlaced, allowing the spiritual vibe to hug us, before we bought a small crucifix and exited the place of worship.

It was quite a day with Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis still to cover and a plov cooking class to attend.

From the outside, it doesn’t even prepare you for the ethereal blues it presents to its visitors. Agape with wonder by the street cemetery, featuring majolica, carved mosaics and floral motifs in the brilliant shades of blue, beige and white. The colour profile projected royalty. Never assumed the afterlife came bearing such grandeur — these tombs are an epitome of that opulence and mustn’t be missed at any cost.

As usual, hubby dearest had spotted a corner bench for a siesta. While he snored, I took all the time I needed to enter most of the tombs before bidding this magnanimous burial spot goodbye.

On our way back, we passed the striking statue of Amir Timur, where, despite hoping for a photograph, the crowd around it shook my resolve.

I could have chosen to head to a local home where I could learn to make traditional sweets and desserts, or a vegetarian menu or even Samarkand street food, but I decided to only go for a plov-making session.

The flight from Tashkent to Samarkand is hardly an hour, and the price starts from as low as INR 1800!

Unfortunately, there are no direct flights from Bukhara to Samarkand. The most viable option is by train or bus.

Premium-priced, but I would choose Afrosiyob Railways any day; you can also check other budget railway services — the more local ones.

You can either book through the Uzbekistan e-ticket railway site or through 12go.asia.

Another great option is to book a bus, which doesn’t require reservations to be made two weeks prior. It can be procured immediately (having missed my Afrosiyob booking due to my blunder, scoring a bus ticket was my only option).    

You could either stay around Registan Square & Old City or the University Boulevard & Central Samarkand (Russian Town). Both are great areas to stay in Samarkand with easy access to all the historic sites. Hardly a 2 or 3 km walk from each other.

A Full Day Trip to Iskanderkul Lake

An Entire Day Of Exploring Bukhara

A Guided Tour Of Shahrisabz & Takhtakaracha Mountain Pass

A Whole Day Of Excursion to the Seven Lakes

I would rather you give yourself 3 days to embrace the Samarkandi vibe instead of 2 days. It isn’t impossible to cover Samarkand with a 2-day itinerary, but everything will be rushed.

Absolutely yes! Without a shadow of doubt. I still reminisce about my days in Samarkand. The oldest settlement of Central Asia does give you goosebumps. Interesting stories float in the air you breathe.

Samarkand is famous for being the jewel of the Silk Road and also as the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Central Asia, where you can’t miss the turquoise-tiled Islamic architecture.

If you have just a day in Samarkand, I reckon you should take a compact route through the Silk Road monuments – Shah-i-Zinda Necropolis, Registan Square, Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum, Bibi-Khanym Mosque and Ulugh Beg Observatory

It’s best to book a day trip that covers all these historic places.

The best things to buy are their traditional suzani and ikat embroidery, a craft that varies from region to region, dry fruits, ceramics and woodcrafts, especially chekich that’s used to stamp their breads

Of course! Once there, you wouldn’t think of hailing any means of transportation. It is wider and more spread out than Bukhara.

Although the most popular ones are shared over the internet, there are those that are seldom mentioned. They are

You can’t possibly miss the stunning light display over the historic monuments!