All You Need To Know About The Afghan Church in Mumbai

And I promise not to bore you with the intricate architecture of this Anglican Church. But it is my story to tell and what transpired on how and when I was destined to visit this humongous place of worship – Afghan Church in Mumbai.

It was a pleasant February evening when my husband and I decided to take an associate, who had previously served in the Navy and had recently joined my husband’s workplace, for a long drive. He was eager to show us Navy Nagar where he was posted in his heydays and we kept wondering where it might be. We drove beyond Café Mondegar and Leopold while he kept mentioning to drive on. Finally, we reached where the board mentioned ‘Colaba Defence Station’. As we drove on he mentioned his station was close to Afghan Church and we kind of failed to grasp what he was saying. Since it was dark, we could not make much of it. But as vision swept past, it noticed scaffolding that could only mean renovation was in progress. Even then I had decided to drop by in a few weeks’ time.

As destiny would have it, the next day’s paper bore the news of Afghan Church’s ongoing renovation and its opening in a few weeks, at the same time my colleague and dear friend asked to me write about this Church. It felt like I was meant to cover this place of worship. I was ecstatic.

The Day I Visited Afghan Church in Mumbai

A little prologue about the day I visited – Being married into a Catholic family, I know of the traditions and special days and events. Naturally I was aware that the Sunday before Easter is celebrated as Palm Sunday and there would be a service (Mass) conducted for the parishioners.

What is Palm Sunday?

It marks the beginning of the Holy Week that includes Maundy Thursday, Good Friday and Easter and Jesus Christ’s entry into Jerusalem where he was welcomed with waving palm branches. During several services the palm fronds are knotted into crosses and brought home.

The journey from Churchgate Station to Afghan Church was filled with anticipation as what might I expect there; perhaps an ongoing service, or what if its still under renovation or closed to visitors!

But I was in for a shock!

What followed surpassed anything I had expected!

In broad daylight, it obviously looked quite different than how it appeared in the dark silhouette of the night. Symbolic to Christian churches (except for Jewish synagogues) the high steeple of Afghan Church commands a second glance by passersby.

As I stepped inside the Church through the entrance of the tower spire instead of the narthex entrance under the porch, I was welcomed with the intoxicating fragrance of incense emanating from the thurible and filling the nave with its purity. Not only that, but the sound of hymns also added to the allure – I knew that a service was on.

 

Not willing to disrupt the service, I took a seat in one of the rear pews of the nave and waited patiently for the service to end so that I could commence my photography. While I lingered in my seat, I started to listen to the hymns and the service, trying to grasp the vernacular because it was neither in English nor in Konkani. Finally, I came to realize that the Mass was in Malayalam!

As I sat through the entire Mass I noticed a man watching me over his shoulder. It was only after the 2-hr long service, that he approached me, and I shared my intent – I am a travel blogger who wants to write about the 165-year-old Church that stands as a testament to sacrifice and valour. Post my conversation with the gentleman, I spoke to the parish Father who was pleasantly surprised that I sat through a service I hardly understood. Since they had arranged a small feast in honour of Palm Sunday, I was invited to join them, which I politely refused.

What did I gather from my short micro-discovery?

1. 1. This is a Protestant Church.

1. 1. The service is conducted in English and Malayalam.

1. 1. The Mass timings are not mentioned anywhere but you can reach out and check in case you are interested in attending one.

1. 1. This is a small parish of hardly 15-20 parishioners.

1. 1. On Sundays it is open from 7:30 am to 7:30 pm.

1. 1. This is an extremely warm and welcoming parish!

Should you visit Afghan Church if you are not Christian?

You absolutely should!

Why?

Because….

1. 1. A part of history that was never a part of our syllabus – the Afghan War!

1. 1. The intricate details on the walls of the Neo-Gothic masterpiece.

1. 1. The commendable restoration work and landscaping of the Church grounds by K. Unwalla Architects and team of several other organizations.

1. 1. The artefacts on the alter.

1. 1. The plaques with inscriptions of fallen soldiers of the Afghan War.

1. 1. Last but not least – a reason is not reason enough for someone who loves to explore super-local places in a city so diverse that every spot of historical importance is a epitome of cultural significance.

How to reach Afghan Church?

The best and cheapest way is to arrive at Churchgate Station by train and then hailing a cab that would cost INR 110 in all (one-way train ticket = INR 15, cab fare = INR 85 – INR 95)

To me, this Church is not just a place of worship or a representation of courage, but a symbol of harmony where I was welcomed with open arms to sit and break bread with the warm parishioners.