Do you remember the famous snap of a couple kissing while hanging from the train. Taken back in 2019 it threw the internet into a frenzy!

Everyone wanted that shot and everyone hopped on that train ride. Fast forward to the years post Covid, it is reduced to a ‘must-visit’ overcrowded spot of Sri Lanka (and I wish it wasn’t so) – populated with tourists, consequently birthing homestays and cafes promising uninterrupted views of the 100-year-old marvel of the 20th century, its screams ‘over-tourism’.

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A post shared by Camille Demyttenaere (@backpackdiariez)

Might I add I was no exception when we took that trip 5 years post that pic. But let’s stress on ‘wanted’, because God had other plans.

Unable to secure tickets for the famed train ride from Nuwara Eliya to Ella, we embarked on a rather exceptional journey by their local transport – the state bus!

Having our confidence of securing a ticket a day prior to the trip from Ella, met with an obvious disappointment, the only other option was to hail a bus from Nuwara Eliya Bus Stand till Ella bus stop.

The earliest bus was at 7:30 and we were determined to board that one since anything later would have delayed us, subsequently delaying our hike (which I will come to later).

While I love exploring local transport in any country, this bus drive reminded me of my South India travels in state-sponsored buses.

It was of modest means, no aircon, no luxury. Considering we were transversing hilly bends, it didn’t matter, until my spouse started feeling nauseous. For those suffering from motion sickness this journey isn’t for you. These bus rides aren’t for the faint-hearted. Adroit at manoeuvring the narrow loops and slopes, the drivers responsible for these journeys have to take split second decisions that might cause sudden jerks and stomach curls.

Having reached Ella bus stop by 9:30 with no delays, we checked our way to the must-visit Nine Arches Bridge. Advised by the locals to walk along the railway tracks from Ella station, we headed towards our destination!

Having started early (or we presumed so), the weather remained pleasant with the sun on our backs. What initially felt like a simple hike was actually stepping on rail sleepers mounted over ballasts (blessed with a tendency to trip everywhere, this needed my utmost focus!). There are sections where one can step down and walk instead of striding on sleepers. Snaking through sloping forests, it was quite refreshing to walk on the tracks. It took us a little over 30 minutes to reach as we kept stopping and taking pictures. After what seemed like eternity (mostly because of the heat), we reached the Insta-famous spot. Perhaps it was the humidity that overshadowed the usual feeling of magic while the hundred heads of the tourists crawling everywhere only made it worse. Was it always like this or it’s the aftermath of revenge travel or influencer trend – I wondered.

Deep down I was a tad bit disappointed at the neglected state of affairs of this once pristine place, plastic strewn everywhere (I know being an Indian, it’s hypocritical of me to judge but when only hotspots are littered then its mainly the visitors visiting – be it locals or foreigners). While the sun showed no mercy, it was surprising to see tourists queue up on either side of the tracks for a click. By now the sun was right above us while the crowd kept growing as the day progressed. All visitors passing time posing on the tracks until the arrival of the train that would stop on the bridge – there’s no moment to lose.

After about 20 minutes the train arrived with people hanging from the compartment doors for that ONE shot that would go on their Insta and garner likes.

By now my elation had shifted to disinterest.

For the longest time I mirrored the frantic pace of my Mumbai life on my travels. I had grown tired of this mad dash to tick off must-visit places and felt bonded with a slower pace of experiencing a place. Visiting the Nine Arches felt far from it.

One of the several reasons I consciously started avoiding ‘Insta-worthy’ places. It’s not about the crowd; it’s not about the noise. It’s all about the constant pressure to stay relevant on the ‘gram. It was the absence of a pause that would have amplified the steady chugging of the old engine and even turned the noise into a cacophonic symphony.

I really wish my experience was as fulfilling as my friend Ri’s who had the most dreamy train ride from Nuwara Eliya to Ella.

While I returned with a heavy heart at not being able to cherish my moments in one of the most iconic of places in Sri Lanka, I made a solemn promise to be back at better time, a better season and most of all with a better itinerary that remained unscripted.

While the sun harshly scorched our frame, we took refuge in a tiny track-side stall for a glass of lemonade and snacks. As we chilled under the make-shift roof of dry coconut leaves, we heard the engine trundling down the track. Ears on the tracks, eyes closes for complete concentration, I tried hard to feel the vibration and listen to its warning horn. Stepping away from the tracks we watched the red and yellow tin nose turn a corner approaching us with a slowness that felt more like a warm introduction. I am drawn to passing trains, watching passengers sit on floorboards or designated seats, cheering, filming, enraptured in their bubble. I watched in awe as my mind’s lens captured them all – some busy to reach their destination, others occupied with taking the perfect shot. I bade them a happy journey.

Although all accounts the best time to visit is between November to March where the temperature plummets ensuring a pleasant walking or hiking experience, early morning is the most preferrable time of the day for hikes. Having started from Nuwara Eliya as early as 7:30 am also felt delayed if you are planning for a daytrip to Ella.

To truly soak in the vibe of the complete Ella experience, board a train from Nanu Oya Station which is 10 minutes away from Nuwara Eliya city centre (in case you are camped there) and avoid bus or a cab.

The first train departs from Nanu Oya Station for Ella at 6:15 am daily. Train journey takes between 3-4 hours.

Having tried the bus, I can without a shadow of doubt advise against it.

In case you want to save on time, you can book a cab a day prior for an early morning start and reach Ella bus stop at daybreak. From there head to Ella Railway Station and make your make along the track.

This is to avoid the sea of people at Nine Arches Bridge.

Travellers tend to feel nauseous even when they don’t suffer from acute motion sickness.

• For those who temporarily suffer from nausea during high altitude hairpin bends can either try peppermint, chewing gum or Indian spices like carom and fennel seeds.
• Avoid boarding with a full stomach.
• Carry lemonade. Generally sucking on a lemon during these journeys can prevent too many pills intake.

As I sit to pen my Lankan experience, the heart still feels heavy, a certain void lingers large – how a destination that I had craved to explore for the longest time did not feel magical. Whether it was the heavily colour-graded posts or the swarming visitors or the carelessly littered plastic or cumulation of all – I still can’t figure. But a lesson learned. Now I no more visit places based on expectations set by social media, instead its more about taking time to research, trying to include unexplored spots, avoiding overcrowded ‘must-visits’ as much as possible and trying to be a responsible traveller.

Moments that did not feel worth the hype were compensated by those that made the trip to Sri Lanka phenomenal – like 4 days in Mirissa, an absolute heaven for those who are born to be in water – heat and tan be damned!