The Eating Joints We Visited on Our 4-Day Trip to North Goa

Known for its susegad life, the coastal state of Goa takes pride in its culinary delights, especially seafood – from Surmai (kingfish) to Bombil (Bombay duck) to Lepo to tisrya (clams) to Kalamari (squid); it’s a seafood riot on a plate! Although these delicacies are not unknown to coastal Maharashtra, the preparation remains slightly different. So, while these items remain a part of my regular diet, I was swept by Bondhu’s (read Riyanka) enthusiasm to devour all the different fish thalis that Goa had to offer. We tried tapping into the local cuisine of Goa and visited the best possible places to eat in North Goa.

Since we were nested in the northern part of Goa, we opted to go for the ones that did not require us to travel great lengths (also heavy monsoon showers bummed our plans to head to hyper-local joints). In short, this Goa visit ended up being a lazy, laid-back food trip where I turned into a gourmand while Riri simply enjoyed the food – a perfect balance in the realm of travelogists.

Here’s where we devoured (we did not eat) on our 4-day trip to North Goa.

DAY 1

SUBLIME

True to its name, it provides an exquisite ambience inside an old Portuguese house in Assagao serving their signature blend of French Indian gourmet style cuisine and innovative cocktails.

With indoor and outdoor seating, we opted to sit in the covered verandah as sitting in the lawn wasn’t an option due to the incessant rain.

What We Ordered

• Chicken & pineapple taco
• 2 cocktails
• Beer-battered seabass

Address: House No. 481, Bouta Waddo, Asgaon, Goa 403507

Open Hours: 12 pm to 4 pm, 6:30 pm to 11:30 pm

Contact: 098224 84051

ARTJUNA

Because my Bondhu loved the vibe, the coffee and the finger-food there, we dropped in for a good brew which we had. There are several ones across Goa – the one we visited was in Assagao.

What We Ordered

• One cappuccino
• One Vietnamese cold brew

Address: Assagao Badem Road, Junction, near Sorro, Vagator, Goa 403507

Open Hours: 7:30 am to 6 pm

Contact: 077220 17090

DAY 2

GOLDSPOT

It was a random find as we promenaded through the vibrant lanes of Fontainhas in Panjim. At the sight of this quaint café, my Bondhu quipped ‘I have seen so many reels of this place’ to which I had to say ‘then chalo inside’. Although we had plans of eating lunch, we can refuse a good cuppa coffee and a homemade orange cake! As we waited upon our order, the tiny pieces of souvenir collected by the own during her travels, captured our attention as also the ceiling of the tiny joint covered with old, yellow pages of story books that gave a bedazzled look to it.

What We Ordered

• 2 Masala chai (although I am not a fan and prefer red tea)
• A fresh homemade orange cake.

Address: 135, Rua 31 de Janeiro, Fontainhas (quarter), Altinho, Panaji, Goa 403001

Open Hours: 10 am to 8 pm. Closed on Tuesdays

Contact: 087883 14258

KOKNI KANTEEN

As Bondhu had been raving about this place, it was a must-visit. Little did I know that they would serve the same dishes that I have grown to cook over the years (courtesy – being married to a Mangalorean Catholic fellow!).

Nevertheless, a thali is what I always crave for (but the quantity is beyond my capacity now). But it wasn’t just the thali. As one of our Goan friends joined in, she wanted us to have the best and ordered the best things that Bondhu should try.

The overall experience was quite ‘filling’ if I may say so because post that heavy lunch all I wanted was some shuteye.

What We Ordered

• 3 Kingfish thali
• 1 plate of tisrya
• 1 plate of lepo/lepa
• 3 shots of Feni along with salt, slit chilies, limca and soda for mixing (best way to relish Feni – our Goan friend was our mixologist!)

Address: Dr Dada Vaidya Rd, Near Mahalaxmi Temple, Altinho, Panaji, Goa 403001

Open Hours: 12:30 pm to 3 pm, 7:30 pm to 11:30 pm

Contact: 095792 75664

LARDER & FOLK

Another great find by our Goan friend. A cozy café with rustic interiors and 80’s music quaint café in the Portuguese corners of Fontainhas.

Good coffee, great Bombolini, musical notes and a casual vibe makes it the absolute delightful workstation.

What We Ordered

• Bombolini – chocolate and vanilla
• Vietnamese cold brew (not their strength)
• Cappuccino

Address: HO, 1/61, Vivenda Aleluia, Rua São Tomé, behind GPO, Panaji, Goa 403001

Open Hours: 9 am to 7 pm. Closed on Mondays

Contact: 093598 15109

DAY 3

KEFI CAFE & BISTRO

Just 100 feet from our stay at Justa Casa Frangipani, this Lebanese café & bistro has a Bohemian vibe with huge cushions for utmost comfort and climbers and creepers adorning the entrance of the joint – a cool vibe to imbibe and use as a workstation!

What We Ordered

• 2 coffees (don’t really know the ones ordered but did not like mine).

Address: House No. 460, Tembar, Anjuna Mapusa Rd, Asgaon, Goa 403507

Open Hours: Open 24 hours

Contact: 082088 16748

KOKUM CURRY PANJIM

My Bondhu’s find, this establishment serves traditional Goan Saraswat food, a cuisine that was once confined to the kitchens of Saraswat families and has now been adopted as grandmother’s recipes. A dedicated proponent of Gauda Saraswat Brahmin heritage food that has its origin in the Konkan region of western coast of India, this cuisine is predominantly pesco-vegetarian.

What sets it apart from other eating establishments is its dedication towards privacy. Spread over a large area, the seats are adequately spaced out for families to enjoy their time over a ‘thali of goodness’.

And it’s better than Kokni Kanteen (at least by my standards).

What We Ordered

1 Kingfish thali

1 special thali

2 shots of 60 ml Feni along with salt, slit chilies, limca and soda for mixing (and mixed it just the way our Goan friend had taught us!)

Address: 12/24/2A, No 36, Rua Cunha Riveira, Opposite Municipal Garden, Panaji, Goa 403001

Open Hours: 12 pm to 4pm, 7 pm to 11 pm

Contact: 099229 98351

PADARIA PRAZERES

Perfect for chilling with buddies who love finely brewed coffee and perfectly baked confectionary. Known for its Pastel de nata or Portuguese egg tarts, they even serve lip-smacking focaccia – the no-knead dough that rises to a fluff par excellence.

What We Ordered

Pastel de nata – INR 90

Focaccia

Address: Plaza, Ground floor, opposite Models Celebrity, Caranzalem, Panaji, Goa 403002

Open Hours: 8 am to 8 pm. Closed on Mondays

Contact: 093228 06130

DAY 4

BOBA ZAI

With minimal cozy interiors this is an apt space for groups who love to chill with a glass of Boba and a game of UNO or for those who revel in solitude and read.

What I Ordered

• Oreo Boba

Address: 1357 (1, St. Sebastian Vaddo, Bouta Waddo, Anjuna, Goa 403509

Open Hours: 1 pm to 10 pm. Closed on Mondays

SOPO

Among one of the best places to eat in North Goa, SOPO translates to ‘lazy bench’ in Konkani serves Khow Suey – a Burmese rendition of Thai Khao Soi. A noodle soup with a base of coconut milk with an assortment of toppings like chopped scallions, chilies and dill, roasted sliced garlic and anchovies, boiled egg, sliced onions, lemon, roasted peanuts, salt, varieties of fryums.

Even the drinks had a perfect balance of base, modifier and flavouring.

What We Ordered

• Grilled Asian Seabass/ Kachin Ngakin
• Ohn-no Khowsuey (Prawn)
• A-kyaw Chicken, Tamarind Soy
• Mint Me Up (cocktail)
• 1986

Address: 544/2, Mapusa – Anjuna – Chapora Rd, opposite Sublime Goa, Bouta Waddo, Asgaon, Goa 403507

Open Hours: 12:30 pm to 1 am

Contact: 088303 29902

JOSEPH’S BAKERY

I was fixed on buying bebinca from Simonia Bakery located in Mapusa Market. But unfortunate circumstances did not allow me to purchase it from there. However, my resilience in researching good bebinca stores paid off, and I found Joseph’s Bakery.

What I Ordered

• Bebinca (Goan dessert)
• Chicken patties
• Serradura (Goan dessert)
• Goan rolls (pork)

Address: Khorlim, Mapusa, Goa 403507

Open Hours: 7:30 am to 8 pm

Contact: 098235 22132

More often than not we tend to overlook the brilliance of local cuisine that incorporates local ingredients. Instead, we chase Western food influences that have also corrupted in an attempt to cater to the larger audience.

The outcome? We are missing out on both worlds of taste. The solution: embrace the local tastes that a place is gifted with.

Although the thalis that we relished were influenced by the Saraswat Brahmins, there are also dishes that speak of the Catholic influence – Goan delicacies like chicken cafreal, pork vindaloo, sorpotel, prawn balchao, ambotik (tangy preparation with prawns or fish), fish recheado, bebinca, dos, serradura and many more items. It is important to understand that the secret of a culture is not only hidden it the architecture of its time but also its cuisine, which may, over time alter due to the ever-changing sensibilities but remains predominantly traditional at its very crux.

Here’s what you can do while planning your next trip to Goa, look for eating joints serving everything local or hit me up and I will help you with some good recommendations!

If you are looking to explore South Goa on a short 3 or 4-day trip then you should consider browsing through this 4-day offbeat South Goa itinerary that I have curated from my own experience.