Living Legacy On Stilts: Welcome To The Clan Jetties Of George Town

It was just a slow day. George Town had welcomed us with a mild shower – a welcome change from the usual humidity that lingers in the air. With no written itinerary to adhere to, we decided to dedicate our evening to the legacy of this coastal Malay town – the Clan Jetties of George Town. A little early for taking in the bursting colourful beauty of the fading sun but perfect for a leisurely stroll, we turned towards the jetties. Out of nine clan villages in Penang, reduced to seven, three clans remain accessible to outsiders. Having heard stories floating about the clan jetties of Penang and how some aren’t as welcoming as the vibrant Chew Jetty, I had to verify the claims.

Known to be the most welcoming and vibrant, Chew Jetty wasn’t going to be my first stop when staring the tour. A stone’s throw away from Chew, Lee Jetty offered more of a homely atmosphere than one mired in clamour. It wasn’t the picture of a typical Chinese community chattering away from open doorways or the air filled with the clatter of mahjong tiles – it was more of a quiet life lived within the comfort of closed doors. Anticipation in my belly, I stepped on the very first jetty – Lee, no one shooed us away.

I slowly walked on across bare the plank supported by stilts and surrounded by nothing but the vast Malacca Strait – felt meditative.

I left Lee with a sense of timelessness.

Sticking to my plan we cruised to the next one – Tan Jetty. Halfway through as we came across a house with two French bulldogs playing around, we decided to turn back, not because we were interrupted but because of the stream of tourists we saw stomping to the end of the board. I didn’t want to add to the madness.

These days I mentally condition myself before pushing past a crowd. That’s what I did during the walk from Tan to Chew Jetty. Unlike the other jetty entrances this one obviously steals the show with its pompousness, raucity and defined chaos.  

At the entrance on either side are food stalls that hides the vibrance of the Chao Yuan Kong Temple from the streets. The temple is dedicated to Taoist God of Life and Health (Baosheng Dadi) and the Jade Emperor. Plastic chair scattered around tables, mostly occupied by residents of the jetty, gives the feeling of a community. Contrary to the other jetties, this one roared with life! And despite my initial inhibitions I found myself quite taken in by the cacophony (except for the blaring music that left my ears ringing long after we left the bustle). Synonymous with Chinese culture, bright red overhead lanterns, strung all the way to the jetty opening, bouncing from the sea-faring winds brought out the perfect oriental atmosphere.

We took the wooden boardwalk leading to the end of the jetty. Shops, many closed for the day and few manned by residents sold handcrafted items, groceries, toys and knickknacks. As we walked past the closely placed stilt-supported wooden houses, community living echoed from all crevices across quarters.

Along the boardwalk were fenced houses, some with precariously placed potted plants, colourfully painted planks with witty one-liners, funny murals depicting livelihood scenes with a marine element is a common feature.  Emerging into the openness, moored speedboats swaying rhythmically along with the gentle waves, more murals, a dragon headed boat perched on an extended portion of the boardwalk, a corner dedicated to wind-worked paper pin wheels circling in tandem and blue-sky radiating colours at the sun’s exit – a scene beyond compare greeted us. Considered the best jetty in George Town, a little solitude is what I was missing in this heart-throbbing set-up.

A few clicks for memories, we moved on to the other lesser-known jetty, although I would be lying if I missed to not mention that we didn’t quite find the entry point for Ong Jetty. After almost straying into a residential building, stomping up and down the same road thrice, carefully calculating the possible entry points and failing – we decided the clan must have closed their doors to the harrowing public gaze. Even that was something to be respected. Privacy preferred over economy – that’s a strong stance.

Absolutely no rush to head anywhere, we headed back to Lee Jetty. Parking at the very end of the wooden stilt board of the jetty, I tried hard to catch a glimpse of a carp or a crustacean in the brackish waters of the Malacca Strait. Were I not rudely interrupted by my spouse’s need for a snack I am sure I would have succeeded in spotting some marine creatures! With nothing but an empty mind, all I  did was sit in peace, staring at the limitless horizon, taking in every sense that prevailed as a tiny teardrop formed in the corner of my eye.

Mindlessly wandering into every alley, we spotted a quiet corner stall manned by elderly Chinese women, selling prawn fritters, fried tofu and 𝘭𝘰𝘩 𝘣𝘢𝘬 – a Hokkien meat roll made with pork marinated in five-spice, wrapped in bean curd skin and fried to perfection.

The jetty-hopping ended at sundown with randomly boarding the Penang Free Cat Bus that allowed us the leeway to get off anywhere we pleased, a wonderful way to cap off the evening before sauntering through the touristy lanes to grab dinner at a local stall and calling it a night ♥️

Penang International Airport is the closest and situated on George Town Island. There are direct flights from Indian cities like Mumbai and Delhi.

Fly into Kuala Lumpur International Airport, book your tickets for KL Express and board the high-speed train from airport to KL Sentral. Then take the KTM from KL Sentral to KTMB Butterworth (Penang) Station that takes around 6.5 hours. The final leg is the ferry from Butterworth Pier to George Town Ferry Terminal that takes 15 minutes.

Take a flight to Kuala Lumpur International Airport, board the KL Express from airport to KL Sentral or direct buses from KLIA T1 and T2 to Terminal Bersepadu Selatan (TBS), the latter would be my preferred choice. Catch a bus to Butterworth (Penang) Bus Terminal that takes around 6.5 hours. The final leg is the ferry from Butterworth Pier to George Town Ferry Terminal that takes 15 minutes.

To me Malaysia is an all-round destination to visit but travelling to George Town there during wet season comes with its own set of challenges like flooding, closure of popular spots, restricted beach activities and so on. Wet season in the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia occurs between April to October so the best time to travel to George Town is between December to March.

Every Malay Island offers a unique take on things. While Langkawi is more popular among tourists with its duty-free items and mangrove forests, George Town spins a different charm.

Armenian Street walls covered in exquisite paintings that has become as closely associated with George Town as the clan jetties, often finds appreciative patrons turning corners of every alley.

Another great place to spend a day is Penang Hill where you could take a walk midst nature and the wonderful indigenous creatures that live in its wilderness and enjoy a private tour of The Habitat at Penang Hill.

A complete day of adventure calls for Penang National Park – the perfect spot for a hike, swimming in the beach and spotting wildlife. If hopping temples are your things, then Kek Lok Si Temple – the largest Buddhist temple in Malaysia should be on your list.

The queue can be long in a lot of the popular places so buying a Klook Pass is the best way to avoid hassle and crowd. There are 26 attractions to select from.

Malaysia is known for rustling up some mouth-watering dishes and George Town has forever been the place where you find loads of it. Known for some tasteful items there are locals taking tourists on food tasting tours that one must try. I, for one stuck to certain signatures.

• Homemade mee goreng (fried noodles) from a local kitchen.
• A great way to cool off is sit with a bowl of ice kacang (shaved ice dessert)
• Roti Canai
• Cendol
• Loh bak

• To avoid midday crowds and heat the best time to visit is early morning that offers golden light and the quiet hum of waking life. Sunset is spectacular too.
• Buy from resident-run stalls. That way your contribution helps preserve this way of life.
• Don’t peer intrusively into homes, don’t be loud and ask before photographing residents.
• The real treasure is to let your emotions of each jetty wash over you. They are different. Savour it.

Months on, the only thing lingering on my mind is the salt-tinged air of Penang’s George Town. Suspended between land and sea I checked off possible jetties (sans Ong) but a particular one still clings on – Lee Jetty. Nothing fancy, just a cluster of houses on stilts over the tidal mudflats beautifying a short plank where solitude held my hand like an old friend.