‘Where should we head this weekend’, enquired my husband, pat came my reply ‘Bhau Daji Lad Museum!’, ‘thought so’ – he quipped. An old soul who loves to visit old spaces, appreciate antiquities and marvel the craftmanship of the artists of yesteryear, Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum – the oldest museum in Mumbai, was on my list for quite some time.
Once a dilapidated building that was shut to public for long time recently opened its door to the public again after its much-needed makeover. I was quite keen on visiting after my visit to Chhatrapati Shivaji Vastralaya Museum (CSMVS) in town.
Settled in the green neighbourhood of Byculla, within the premises of the city’s only botanical garden (Veermata Jijabai Bhosale Botanical Udyan) and zoo (Rani Baug), Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum (erstwhile Victoria and Albert Museum) is the oldest museum of Mumbai (rather Bombay).
What sets it apart from CSMVS is the digital archive playing the upper echelon mirthful parties of the yesteryear society. It didn’t just unveil the socio-economic layout of the time and the demography that wove a fine cultural blend, but also a map of how seven islands made up the city I now call home!
A Little History
Established in 1857, the oldest museum of Mumbai – Bhai Daji Lad had opened its doors to the public in March 1957 with its meagre collection. One of the most important historical sites, this museum building was the first colonial building that was constructed with the purpose of housing a museum.
Unfortunately, the Uprising of 1857 left the collection damaged, and several specimens lost. Once the governing body of India shifted hands from under the East India Company to the Crown in 1958, a Town meeting was called upon to seek public subscription of museums and gardens. Under the chairmanship of Jugganath Sukersett who was one of the prominent merchant princes, the meeting was attended by several patrons like Bomanjee Hormusjee Wadia, Byramjee Jeejeebhoy, Cazee Mahomed Yoosoof Moorgay, Braz Fernandes, Munguladass Nuthoobhoy along with the two museum secretaries – Dr. Bhau Daji Lad and Dr. George Birdwood. During that time, an unimaginable amount was collected via donation INR 116,141 that was topped by an additional contribution of INR 100,000 by the government.
The cornerstone of the building was laid by Governor Bartle on the 19th November 1862 at a ceremony in attendance of the city’s elite. Bedevilled by the shortage of funds, the construction continued for a good 10 years before Victoria and Albert Museum, Bombay opened its doors again on the 2nd of May in 1872. A century later, on the 1st of November 1975 the museum was renamed Dr. Bhau Daji Lad in honour of the man whose vision and dedication made it happen.
Originally conceptualized by George Birdwood the design included all the basic features of the building visible today- a long hall after ingress, Doric pillars, galleries on either side of the building and large windows for light and ventilation.
The large Palladian exterior with the elaborate Victorian interior the museum reflects the hybrid composition that flaunt an inimitable allure. Celadon green that’s brushed on the walls was ascertained after much research to be used by the buildings of 19th century. It was later ratified by the restorers at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
The hybrid architectural composition
After securing the pass, we pushed past the ornate wrought iron turnstile to enter the humongous hall that houses the gallery on either side. The first thing you notice is the checkered basalt tiles that had sustained unimaginable damage. Before the tiring extensive five-year restoration initiated, the museum along with its exhibits was in shambles. Visible algae covering the walls, relentless plants penetrating the building core, the floor scarred and pitted, priceless artefacts in dismal condition due to dirt, dust and fungal accretions and poor conservation had been a common visual.
It was only after the renovation that the once obscure designs of the checkered tiles became discernible when they were ground an inch and then polished. A prominent reminder of the neglect they welcome a curious mind. Carefully itemized exhibits sit inside display cases along with tiny beads of silica gel to absorb moisture and prevent fungal growth.
Whether it was the imported Minton tiles from England that beautified the stairwell and the upper floor, or the stonework or the embellished crockery made of coconut shells polished to perfection – every corner was carefully restored by expert craftsmen. Master gilders from Vasai who had perfected the trade for generations by gilding on church statues were appointed. Artisans were called all the way from Kashmir and special yarn imported from Iran to work their magic back into the Yerwada Jail carpet that hangs with pride in the central staircase. Every restored piece a testament of the dedication and perseverance to preserve the purity of the artefacts.
All thanks to the restoration efforts undertaken by Tasneem Mehta, the managing trustee and honorary director of the museum, whose watchful eyes overlooked the first restoration that continued for five years (from 2003 to 2008) under the public-private partnership with the BMC, the Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH) and the Jamnalal Bajaj Foundation.
Although I am into vintage architecture but was equally bowled over by the frames of modern architectural aesthetics of Manik Bagh in Indore – the palace designed by the German architect Eckart Muthesius for Maharaja Yashwant Rao Holkar II. An extensive gallery is dedicated to the history of the royal couple’s life and their collaboration with Eckart Muthesius resultant construction of the Manik Bagh Palace in Indore.
The Collection
The oldest museum serves as a gateway to the city’s rich cultural heritage. This isn’t just a museum—it’s a narrative, showcasing the city’s journey through a rare collection of 19th-century fine and decorative arts. The permanent exhibits tell the story of Mumbai’s people from the late 1700s to the early 1900s through detailed clay models, historic maps, photographs, and lithographs. Since 2003 the museum has expanded its permanent collection to include contemporary art to create a comprehensive and evolving story of the city’s rich artistic landscape. The curatorial approach ensures that every piece contributes to a larger, central theme.
Museum Sections
Post renovation, meticulous efforts have been established for curatorial strategy. The display cases were reorganized and the collection representation in light of new research. Detailed planning for each case involved understanding the storyline being presented and optimizing its visual character.
Industrial Arts Gallery
Highly prized in the international markets of the 19th century, Indian objets d’art became fashionable in European cities. The museum’s decorative art collection holds objects on display that represents the local traditions modified to cater to European tastes.
The Founders’ Gallery
The Founders’ Gallery presents the story of the extraordinary citizens of the Bombay Presidency, who dedicated their lives to establish this Museum for the city of Mumbai and its people. As a tribute, portraits of these great men are exhibited in the Founders’ Gallery that include George Buist, Juggonath Sunkersett, Dr. Bhau Daji Lad, Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy and George Birdwood.
The Kamalnayan Bajaj Mumbai Gallery
This gallery speaks about Mumbai’s origins and its development from the 18th to the through the 20th century. It gives a glimpse into the socio-economic architecture of that time – the people, their livelihood, their leisurely activities, their religious traditions – everything is documented alongside detailed dioramas, illustrating 19th-century town planning, farming methods, and daily village life.
Opening Hours:
10 am to 5:30pm (Closed on all Wednesdays and select public holidays.)
Entry Fee:
Indian Nationals
(including PIO, OCI, NRI with ID)
Adult – Rs.20/-
Children (3 – 12 years) – 10/-
School / University / College students (with valid ID) – 10/-
Senior Citizens (above 60 Years) – 10/-
Police and members of the armed forces – 10/-
BMC Employees – 10/-
For school and other group bookings contact
Contact: education@bdlmuseum.org or T: +91 22 23741234
International Citizens
Adults – 200/-
Children (3 – 12 years) – 100/-
FREE entry for
BMC School Students, visitors with physical disabilities
* Entry Tickets are required for all public programmes at the Museum.
Book Tickets Online – https://bdlmuseum.mcgm.gov.in/museum-form?lang=en
Courses: https://www.bdlmuseum.org/course/index.php
How to Reach
By Bus
Towards Veer Mata Jijabai Bhosale Udyan (Rani Baug)
1, 3, 5, 6 Ltd, 7 Ltd, 8 Ltd, 9, 11 Ltd, 15, 18, 19 Ltd, 21 Ltd, 22 Ltd, 25 Ltd, 50, 51, 64, 67, 69, 126, 134, 168, 50 Ltd.
By Train
- If you are taking the Central Line then get off at Byculla (East) Station. It’s just a 2-min walk.
- If you are coming by the Western Line then off-board at Mahalaxmi Station. It’s a 10 min cab ride away via Jacob Circle
- If you are getting through the Harbour Line then get off at Reay Road, then 5 mins by taxi and a short 10 min walk
Parking
Parking facilities are available within the compound for 2 wheelers, cars and buses. Kindly note that parking may not be available between 5 pm to 6:30 pm due to traffic regulations at the Zoo entrance.
This time I didn’t spend much time capturing exhibits, instead, I invested in reading the labels, understanding, watching the digital archives with intent – intrigued how much information escapes the pages of history.
For those who want to explore Mumbai beyond its beaches and nightlife (both of which now seems trite except for the wonderful creatures residing on the shores), stepping into these vestiges of Mumbai’s past is a way of flipping through the historic pages of this glorious city! Be it taking a bite of the famous brun-maska at the time warped Yazdani Restaurant and Bakery or immersing in heritage or cultural walks – Mumbai offers abundant possibilities of exploration.
12 years on, I am still unwrapping its secrets – one heritage at a time!
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