Shades of pristine blue peeps from every corner of this laidback town of Sri Lanka. The colours of the sea will con your thoughts into a sublime mirage of shifting hues of blues every few kilometers but it’s merely your imagination playing tricks with your mind. You get so mesmerized by the brilliance of the blues that scientific reasoning becomes invalid. But who can blame the naïve souls for falling in love with the beauty of the natural world? Welcome to Mirissa! Although at the offset, I wasn’t sure if 4 days in Mirissa would leave me with a pelagic overload but by the end of it, I definitely wanted more!
While planning our Sri Lanka itinerary, this was one place we couldn’t afford to miss (maybe ‘cause the travel participants are too much of a beach bum!)
As we weren’t bogged by the need to check places off a list, we had the liberty to do ‘the hell we wanted’ and here’s what we did for 4 days in Mirissa!
Itinerary
Day 1: Travel from Nuwara Eliya to Mirissa
Morning
A road trip from Nuwara Eliya to Mirissa was planned that naturally warranted waking up early and leaving since we wanted to have seafood for lunch at Mirissa. The goal was to leave by 7:30 am to reach Mirissa by 2pm along with pit stops. Since we had contemplated having lunch in Mirissa, we just grabbed yogurts on the way. Although we crossed breathtaking greens covers, scalable hillocks, villages that were part of wildlife corridors, I kept my eyes open for a glimpse of a stray wild elephant (because Sri Lanka is one of the Asian countries with elephant presence where human-elephant conflict is prevalent) but wasn’t fortunate enough to spot any of this road trip (but did see one in Sigiriya). You realize you are entering the turquoise paradise as you turn right from Bogahawewa – beyond which lies blue bliss!
Afternoon
Our adventurous streak stopped us from booking a stay so we ended up hopping around looking for availability.
First stop was The Doctor’s House in Madiha, which was an absolutely gorgeous property! An insane spot on the outskirts of the city centre, with a huge sit-out area, a bar shack, this place is a 200-year-old former Dutch Ayurvedic Hospital with the sea right across from the stay. Unfortunately, the stay per night in their bungalow was beyond our budget but if you are travelling solo or with friends who are okay to stay in dorms (4 and 6-beds) this will is what you need. Since the cost was over our budget, we decided to move on to something that was closer to the city centre.
Then we drove directly into the main town of Mirissa which was another 20 mins away and asked our driver to drop us there. We chilled at a local roadside eating joint with a plate of Kothhu, toast, omlette and lime drinks. Then we split to check out other places:
Hangover Hostels Mirissa – Was booked. Great place, chill vibe.
Randiya Sea View Hotel – Overbudget, premium stay.
Finally, the efforts of our friends paid off and we got a good deal for a 3-night stay along with breakfast at Leoni Miriss. Don’t be fooled by the 3-star hotel category mentioned on Google. IT IS NOT. It is a row of cabins very close to the beach. Decent and average – nothing fancy. But we were happy in that space as we wanted to rest our backs after the drive.
Evening
After a good 2-hour nap, we hit the beach just as the sun bid bye for the day creating a riot of colours in its wake! The flat seabed beyond the shoreline allowed us to venture a little deeper and sway along the big waves (although I mistimed a big one and ended up somersaulting underneath it. But I was ecstatic!
Close to where we were romping in the waters, lifeguards were releasing Olive Ridleys (in case you do not know they are turtles who were at one point considered ‘Endangered’ but now their status has changed to ‘Vulnerable’ under IUCN list). The density of the crowd around being well-behaved compared to the one in Velas, I was able to see the tiny reptiles finding their way to the ocean! It was a heartwarming sight (that led me to shed a tear or two).
As the moon shone with its starry companions, we went for a walk on the beach, stopped and tried erecting sandcastles which kept getting washed away. But we kept at it!
By then we had built a considerable appetite, so we headed back to our rooms for a relaxing shower, got pretty and hit the streets in search of some good food and great ambience. Despite walking into a trendy restaurant, having a drink and finger food, something was missing. I guess it was sitting in a shack on the beach with a delirious plate of food. I am big into grilled fish, so I ordered a whole white snapper – grilled and slightly charred and a drink to go with it.
Sitting on the beach, sand in my hair (you can’t escape it, come what may!), holding a cocktail, awaiting a wholesome protein plate with adequate greens was my perfect way to end an exhausting yet fulfilling day.
Day 2: A Visit To The Vibrant Galle
Morning
Since this day was dedicated for Galle visit, we took it slow. While my husband was busy making up for his lost slumber, even Hypnos couldn’t lure me away from my early morning beach walk.
A happy soul on a sandy beach on a hot sunny day; I was melting and loving every moment of stepping deep into the fine wet grains of the shore.
I wish I could say I wanted to add in more things in our 4-day itinerary to Mirissa but I was content with what we did and how we did it.
Returned to loaded myself with a heavy breakfast before heading to Galle on a gearless bike (Scooty).
Pro-tip: Its always good to rent bikes or car when travelling anywhere in a smaller group or as a couple (except for mountains if you are not a seasoned driver). Saves up a lot on transport. Please note both the rider and the pillion should keep their helmets on – no exceptions!
Afternoon
An hour’s ride from Mirissa to Galle, the journey was absolutely delightful. We even stopped on our way to marvel at the changing hues of the crashing blues.
Pro-tip: Apply sunscreen because it is hot, humid and sunny (too sunny for my taste) and cover yourself from the scorching sun. I was all sweaty from the get-go!
Once we reached Galle, our first destination was the Maritime Museum where we spent a considerable amount of time reading up on the different types of handmade boats used for fishing and gaped at the skeleton of Bryde’s whale whose carcass was found stranded near Colombo Commercial harbour in 2003. The carcass was then buried by the Marine Biology Department of NARA within its premises and the skeleton excavated in 2008 to be displayed in the museum.
P.S. – Photography is allowed here but not videography.
Entry Fee: $ 5/ person
Entry Timings: 8:30 am to 4:30 pm
Second stop was the stunning Anglican All Saints’ Church, Galle nestled in the colonial nook of Church Cross St, close to Maritime Museum. A short prayer on the pew and we were on our way to promenade the colonial lanes of Pedlar St. to find rustic buildings-turned-quaint-cafes with quirky décor serving traditional cuisine (which of course does not apply to all cafes, there are also those serving continental items to cater to the Western palate too).
Before we hit a café, we walked into Olanda – House for Antiques & Souvenirs, a place where you find the most bizarrely old stuff a millennial might have had the opportunity of ever laying their eyes on during a visit to their grandparents (like me!). Betelnut crackers, betel trays, lime-box, lighters, pipes and many more artefacts. They even sell gemstones so if you are someone looking for something special you can check this place out.
Now back to looking for a great eatery. We found one called Pedlar’s Inn Café where we ended up overpaying for our beverage order which I had ordered a Lime & Mint and was served with an overdose of extreme muddled mint that kind of left a bitter aftertaste!
Stomachs still growling we headed to the next place which looked good enough for a bite – Secret Garden, obscured by the swing at the entrance, this is a comparatively small place for a big group but thankfully it was just the four of us. We for their traditional coconut milk-infused seafood curry and rice, which I will rate a 3.5 on a scale of 5 (frugal quantity called for point deduction!)
Our tummies full, it was time for pictures at the famed Galle Fort! And we did take some good pictures, trying to avoid crowds in our background to give that ’gram-worthy feel of ‘offbeat place with zero crowd’!
Walking, sipping cold coffees, relishing gelatos, being welcomed into clothes shops and spas and spice shops, smiling at strangers – we had had our fill of adventures before we decided to ride our way back to our paradise.
Evening
Back at Leoni Miriss, we freshened up to look for a heavy meal. Here again we went to Ambrosia Roti Shop & Restaurant, didn’t like the vibe so ended up at Coco Gate but it was worth it! This was the next best food joint after shack. This place overturned my opinion about Kottu Roti, which wasn’t pretty considering what we had in Sigiriya. But Coco Gate changed it all and the amount of food can get any foodie into a frenzy!
My idea of a good sleep is a fulfilling meal and that is what Coco gate offered us before we called it a night.
Day 3: Dedicated to Sea Adventures
Morning
This day was set aside for sea adventures. Started early for our snorkeling session with Mirissa Snorkeling & Fishing Tour that lasted for a good two hours (time flew) at Thalaramba Beach which is quite secluded and an apt place for those who want to snorkel and scuba dive.
Green Sea Turtle
Pro tip: If you are a seasoned swimmer and have snorkeling gear, you can head into the sea and explore on your own. You can also rent the gear in case you don’t have your own. That way you will save $ 25/person!
You can also go whale watching.
Pro-tip: In case you you opt for whale watching you should book with those who adhere to international whale watching regulations. The best one is Raja & the Whales. They also contribute to International Marine Conservation and Research groups through documented photographs.
Afternoon
We weren’t done with the sea so before we headed for a hike to Parrot Rock we grabbed a quite bite at your stay, continuing our frolicking in the sea and chasing marine life for a quick click. Time swished past and it was already early evening when we had a drink on a wooden seaside scaffolding then walked back to our stay while the sun still shone brightly overhead!
Pro-tip: The best place for a splash near Parrot Rock is on the left when you are facing the rock. Avoid going to the right as there are a lot of sharp corals and sea-urchins, visible only from a height. If you miss a footing you might either get bruised against the coral or end up with a sting from the urchins’ spine (which is coated in venom so can cause chronic pain as well as inflammation).
Evening
It was only when we reached our stay by dawn, I realized my skin was badly sunburnt (wasn’t tanned but BURNT). After much deliberation, we all decided to go for a much-needed medicinal massage from an experienced ayurvedic master and end our night on the beachside shack relishing a grilled red grouper with a cocktail on the side.
Pro-tip: I don’t have a clue which water-proof sunscreen will help a melanin overloaded skin like an Indian’s, but you must always carry and wear a sunscreen. The trip was in March, and I am still not back to my original complexion!
Day 4: Time to Say Goodbye
I wish we could stay more than 4 days in Mirissa but it was time to say our byes to this azure beachy affair, so we packed, hit the beach for the last time before we took to the long road back to Colombo to catch our flight home.
This may not be the best 4-day itinerary of Mirissa for you, and you would perhaps want to cram in a lot more in your timeline, but it always works best when you allow yourself some freedom to lay back and soak in the flavours of a place instead of hustling to check-off bucket list spots promoted on Instagram. Because we did try that too on this trip and trust me, it wasn’t a good experience which I am going to share soon. Mirissa was unplanned from the get-go, starting with no booking and it turned out to be our best Lankan experience!
And wherever you go or whatever you do, be mindful, be conscious, be kind and be responsible because your impression is what you leave behind!
Where we stayed
Leoni Miriss – a decent seaside guesthouse, just 30 seconds away from the beach and seafood shacks.
Cost – INR 4,050/per person for 3 nights (including breakfast)
Best Time to Visit Mirissa
It is always between December to February when its winter in Sri Lanka. The ideal time to visit Mirissa for whale watching is between November and March. The cheapest airfare to Colombo is during May to October as the ocean remains choppy.
How to Reach Mirissa
Fly to Colombo Bandaranaike International Airport from Mumbai, Delhi, Kolkata, Bengaluru or Chennai through direct or stopover flights, then either opt for the Lankan Railways or the bus service or book a cab which is the most expensive yet quicker way to reach Mirissa.
During September and October
Mumbai to Colombo: Direct flights start at INR 20,500
Kolkata to Colombo: Stopover flights start at INR 22,500
Delhi to Colombo: Direct flights start at INR 20,500
Bengaluru to Colombo: Direct flights start at INR 21,000
Chennai to Colombo: Direct flights start at INR 12,400
November & December (peak dates)
Mumbai to Colombo: Direct flights start at INR 30,500
Kolkata to Colombo: Stopover flights start at INR 24,500
Delhi to Colombo: Direct flights start at INR 22,000
Bengaluru to Colombo: Direct flights start at INR 18,200
Chennai to Colombo: Direct flights start at INR 13,600
December & January (peak dates)
Mumbai to Colombo: Direct flights start at INR 36,200
Kolkata to Colombo: Stopover flights start at INR 30,500
Delhi to Colombo: Direct flights start at INR 37,500
Bengaluru to Colombo: Direct flights start at INR 26,100
Chennai to Colombo: Direct flights start at INR 15,200
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