I had been mulling over a decade for a Goa trip that would include the places that would fill my ‘Goa’ travel cup. I may seem blasé (my aversion to parties may give that impression), but my desire of bathing in the history and culture of Goa was long due which despite a good 12 trips there, I could never fulfil. But this time my resolve was not to be toyed with (except for good food and I would still negotiate my terms!). Exploring further inland of South Goa was on my agenda and it was time I realized my desire.
Human nature leads you to inadvertently create an image of a place we plan to visit. Goa is no exception. Known as the party destination of India, courtesy to tons of movies that highlight only one aspect, Goa’s cultural construct seems limited to a reveler destination and of frivolity. Little is known of this Portuguese colony that has shaped the trade route of India.
A good 8 days were spent in making a list of all the unique places that could be explored in South Goa. Here’s a complete itinerary for those who are craving to fulfil their ‘susegad’ dream in offbeat South Goa.
The Drive
We drove down from Mumbai but if you are heading there by train, flight or bus, I reckon renting a bike or a car because some places are pretty distant.
We started on a weekday as early as 2:30 am and drove through picturesque villages of the Konkan. Since Google Map was trying to avoid all the traffic and the dug-up highway, it guided us through a completely different route with absolutely no traffic and smooth no-potholes road!
Day 1
The desire to be away from crowd led me to book a homestay at the very end of South Goa, so the drive took longer than anticipated. We reached Goa around 5:30 pm which I would weigh in as decent, considering the traffic on the Pune Expressway was the reason for the 2.5-hour delay.
The long drive with only 3 breaks was enough to keep us tied to our homestay at Galgibag. We ordered in some fish curry, fish fry, rice and chilled. We wanted to call it a night early since the next day would be a long one.
Day 2
The morning seems incomplete without a walk on a secluded beach so out we headed there with 2 furries – one our own and the other a resident of the homestay. The furries frolicked on the sand and then tried venturing out in the sea under our cautious gaze. The brightly sun at 7 am gave us a good rundown of how May months are harsh on the Goans.
Post the open sauna bath, we got ready for a day out with the kindred, but not before a wholesome Goan meal at Sawant Restaurant in Verna – mode fish thali (2) and a plate of chonak fry was for only INR 850.
Then it was time to hang in the cool waters of Udear Springs where a tribe of Pisces will guarantee a good pedicure. 45 minutes later, my feet adequately cleansed, the next stop was the heart-shaped lake that I had recently read about.
A short walk to the cliff, the heart-shaped lake wasn’t what we were expecting – plastic and glass bottles lay strewn everywhere. Google Map might direct you through a private property – don’t take that route, instead, drive a little ahead, then take a right. You will reach a clearing that’s right across the back-gate of the private property. A perfect place to spend some quality time gazing at the limitless sea and its crashing on the rocks below. Time slows down as you start savouring moments.
We had our fill for the day. We dropped our kin off and headed to our stay. Too tired to sit through a dining service, we opted for a takeaway from an Arabic joint.
Day 3
This day was going to be a long one; starting with a 1.5-hour drive to Kurdi/Curdi – the sinking village that resurfaces once a year in May. While the South Goa is known for its tranquil beaches, we passed through coconut groves, laterite rocks and rural life that is lost to many. A point of zilch network and the crazy winding roads led us through the green canopy to a place representing broken dreams and a lifetime of regret. A temple, a chapel and vestiges of houses of Kurdi – what is left of this sunken village.
Brooding over the destiny of the Curdikars, we walked around the barrenness. After spending a considerable amount of time exploring its surroundings, trying to grasp the fate of Kurdi when in a month’s when it will disappear under water, we headed to next location on my list – Usgalimal Rock Carvings, another hidden gem of South Goa
Two wrong turns, of which one took us straight to another petroglyph, lying right in the middle of a huge paddy field, we finally reached the site of Usgalimal Petroglyphs. From a distance it did not look much but that changed the moment we stepped on the first rock. On the banks of Kushavati in Rivona, remains preserved the evidence of the earliest traces of human settlement in Goa in the form of rock carvings that date back to the Neolithic Age.
It is indeed astonishing how the petroglyphs conserved their ridges through test of time, weather and erosion. Adjacent to the rock carvings, lies Kushvati Organic Spice Garden that you can visit.
On the drive back, we stopped at a pretty quarry close to the petroglyph site for a few snaps.
While the day was memorable, the night did not end on a good note as the food served at Kanvas Palolem did not meet my standard but there are quite a few places that might do justice like Bibhitaki, The Mill, Zest Cafe.
Day 4
After much contemplation we started our day with breakfast at The Mill, a cozy pet-friendly café at Palolem serving delish wholesome meals. A breakfast of Siracha Omlette and Blue Tokai Coffee was a good start to our day. As a slight drizzle ensued, we decided to drive towards Karnataka border.
Karwar, the border of Goa and Karnataka which is just a 28-km drive from Galgibag was ideal for a quick getaway. Smooth traffic-less highway hardly took us 30 minutes to reach Karwar beach. While Mr. avoided the walk, my enthusiasm could not be dampened by the blazing sun. With my sunshades on, I braved the heat to walk and capture videos of crabs busy architecting their sand holes. As a family-packed day was planned late afternoon, we drove back to meet our kin at Cabo De Rama Fort.
Checking another box off my list, I stepped into the Fort that lies on the Cabo De Rama peninsular, an impressive 18,000 sq. feet in area. Although in shambles, only one wall has been preserved along with the chapel that was built within its premises. Still in use, the chapel hosts regular mass on Sundays. At the foot of the bluff lies the breathtaking Pebbles Beach. A small gate acts as a doorway to this rocky beach. Coconut trees lines on the sides, the climb down gives the feeling of Coconut Hill in Mirissa, Sri Lanka.
The hike up can give your calves a serious workout if you aren’t very active. But you really need not rush into reaching the top – stop, breathe, observe and absorb.
A serious ‘leg-day’ later we were on our way to The Cape, a Balinese style boutique resort and restaurant built along the edge of the cliff that fans out your innermost desires of an exotic evening.
Not to be judged, I resisted taking pictures of the elegantly plated mouth-watering dishes. Although premium, its worth a visit to spend a good thousand for a cocktail.
The sun retiring for the night behind the crashing waves is a surreal sight.
As the evening came to a close, it left me yearning for more; perhaps a few more days to soak in the rusty rural life of Goa with a few inclusions of boutique food joints apart from the local delights.
An end to our much-anticipated trip that was on the cards for a long time, it was time to drive back home.
How to Reach Goa by Road
Google Maps is your most reliable option as it analyses the pockets where road-widening work is ongoing and most likely to hit traffic.
We drove through Lonavla -> Wai -> Satara -> Sawantwadi -> Drive along NH66
The Homestay We called Home for 4 Days
We booked The Mirage Hut & Villa Galgibag, which is right on the Galgibag Beach. A beach spared from light and sound pollution due to remote location is perfect for astro-tourism.
Cost of the Stay:
INR 3300/night. The pet-friendly hut can accommodate at least 4 people.
Places We Raided for A Meal
- Sawant Restaurant in Verna – Budget and good food
- Kanvas – I wouldn’t recommend it. Although they tried Mediterranean style but I found the food bowl stale
- Khyber – A good place for finger-food and they serve delectable Boba Tea (I am a fan who has consumed quite a lot and likes to try and share her opinion about it)
- The CasaNova Family Bar & Ac Restaurant – Good vibe and decent food
- The Mill – This was a surprise found. No research, just popped during a conversation with a fellow traveller.
- The Cape Goa – This one raked up quite a charge, but it was worth it. From food to ambience – The Cape was the last Lego piece we required to complete the board of a perfect trip.
Places We Visited
- Galgibag Beach
- Turtle conservatory at Galgibag Beach
- Verna
- Udear Springs
- Kurdi/Curdi – the sinking village of Goa (only because it was May)
- Heart Lake of Goa
- Pansaimal Rock Carvings
- Usgalimal Rock Carvings
- Cabo De Rama Fort
- Pebbles Beach
- Karwar Beach
Other Places You Can Visit
- Dudhsagar Falls (closes on the 15th of June due to monsoon)
- Sahakari Spice Plantation
- Chandor or Chandrapur – Goa’s oldest capital
- Loutolim Village
- Ancestral Goa Museum/ Big Foot
- Rachol Village
Things to Remember When Travelling in May
- If you see red flags on the beach avoid venturing into the sea. The sea is unpredictable, and the current can wash you away. The transition from summers to monsoon brings a change in the ocean currents – its advisable to exercise caution.
- Walk along the shoreline to avoid being dragged into the sea by a rogue wave.
- Look for Lifeguard Outposts and try to be around them.
- There are lifeguards but it is humanly impossible to guard the vast coastline so be on guard.
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