Right across the ghats of Ganges, located in the central part of the ‘City of Joy’ lies a monument steeped in history, yet remains neglected by majority of people in the city who throng regular places for a selfie but wouldn’t know of this masterpiece that stands tall right beside the SBI headquarters – it is the famed Metcalfe Hall in Kolkata.
About Metcalfe Hall
Named after Sir Charles T. Metcalfe, the then Governor General of India, Metcalfe Hall in Kolkata was constructed between 1840 and 1844 and remained reflective of the British imperial architectural era that was prevalent at the beginning of the 19th century.
What does it hold?
A piece of history along with the culture that Bengalis so proudly flaunt (and I am one of them)
Sections of Metcalfe Hall
As you climb the steps of the gargantuan building, flanked by the Corinthian pillars, you feel transported to an era that Calcutta still hangs on to. Step inside the humongous hall, with ‘alpona’ painted floor that makes you completely at home (for every ‘probashi Bangali’ who left home for better options and opportunities).
As you cross the passageway connecting the entrance hall to another one, you will come across rooms on either side where evidence of restoration work of ancient temples is housed.
Section 1 – City of Surprise
Entry to the second grand hall welcomes you with the silhouette of a designer fixture hanging from the ceiling. This is where ‘memory lane’ starts. Welcome to the ‘City of Surprise’, that reflects the diversity that Kolkata offers.
Section 2 – City of Memories
Next comes the ‘City of Memories’ where the artist rightfully installed the quintessential hand-drawn ‘rickshaw’ or ‘ricksha’ (as we fondly call it), with numerous hand-written love-notes to Kolkata covering its surface. A note, a poem, a drawing, a message – you are free to express it with your love language. Next time you visit, don’t forget to leave one!
While you take the steps to head to the next floor, the wall remains covered with frames of the Golden Era of Bengali cinema – when stalwarts like Satyajit Ray, Uttam Kumar, Suchitra Sen, Soumitra Chatterjee and several others gave stellar performances and brought recognition to Indian Cinema. Take a min and let it all sink in!
Section 3 – City of Stories
This section leaves a lot to perception and interpretation. While the intellectual category might be drawn to conclude their theory, the simple ones might find it slightly bland for their taste. As for me, I am a bit of both (I do not like overworking my brain into creating a possible outline of ‘what might be’ and ‘what it is not’ – I leave it for my reading sessions), hence I would have liked more of the storytelling. Bengal is rich in culture – definitely more than just a boat with a layered mast hanging from the ceiling and photos plastered on the wall. If I had to use my intellect and interpret the allegory behind it, I would say “How wonderfully complicated a culture that each fold of the mast holds, yet so seamlessly blending and effortlessly flowing with the evolving times”. But this is all mine – run wild with your thoughts!
Section 4 – City of Influence
Truthfully my favourite section. Every element chosen and depicted reflects an integral part of the Bengali culture and what we so hold dear. From eating phuchka, to ‘parar adda’, to ‘club culture’, to ‘machcher bajaar’, to ‘mishti’, to ‘Indian Coffee House’, to the norm of learning music to all the renowned monuments that Kolkata is known for – everything has been thoughtfully placed on a large canvas of a wall.
This section sums up what it is to be a Bengali!
Section 5 – City of Celebration
What do we (Bengalis) celebrate the most?
Our weddings and our Pujo!
The section adjacent to ‘City of Influence’ illustrates what makes our celebration different from others. In one corner the ‘borer topor’ (a head gear worn by Bengali grooms) stands tall along with ‘kola gachach’ (a juvenile banana tree) and other titbits that encompasses the rituals of a Bengali wedding. And not to mention our very own UNESCO Cultural Heritage of Humanity – Durga Puja, which is represented by artisans crafting the clay model of Maa Durga and 108 non-lit diyas at her feet.
Section 6 – City of Culture
This section houses something very dear to me – Bengali books and along with the portrait of my one my revered authors – Rabindranath Tagore. His very mention brings back childhood memories of trying to grasp the essence of his prose and poetry.
Apart from that art and cinema posters also adorned the walls.
That concluded the tour of one of the hidden gems of Central Kolkata that is accessible to all but known to few.
Entry Fee: INR 20 (you have to scan)
Entry Timing: 11am to 6pm (closed on Mondays and all public holidays)
A heritage structure that could easily be mistaken for a government office but is actually a museum bringing together the old and the new, is a rare find and something that every person living in Kolkata or every tourist visiting Kolkata should plan on investing temporally.
Here’s some food for thought – how many super local places do you know in Kolkata? Not the eateries but places of interest. Share the ones that you know of and have visited, and I will tell you if that’s news to me or I have already “been there, done that”!
‘Til I come back with some more super-local places to visit, here’s me signing off!
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